Collards for the 21st Century

My Grandma had a simple, straightforward method for cooking kale or collards. In fact, it was her go-to method for any green that didn't wilt by glaring at it.

The recipe required the washed greens to be placed in a large pot and covered with water. Ham hocks, or more often, a few large chunks of double-smoked bacon obtained from Amish country in Lancaster, PA, was added as the primary flavoring ingredient. Then, the whole mixture was boiled full-throttle for an hour. At the end, the greens were ladled out of the liquid and a little cider vinegar was sprinkled on before serving. It was hearty, if not heart-healthy.

So, in my cholesterol-challenged present, I experienced a certain saturated-fat line of thinking that made me want to avoid the addition of meat. In the end, however, I accepted it as a integral to this style of preparation.

My challenge was to modernize the recipe, using the ingredients I had at hand. The first thing to note is, the turnip greens and the collards can be combined and cooked together into an indistinguishably delicious combination. Just cut the greens off the turnips, remove as much of the woody stalks as possible and snip off any yellowing parts of the greens. Remove the stalks from the collards and wash everything thoroughly. Here is where Grandma and I diverged:

Ingredients:

• 2 slices pancetta 3/8" thick, diced. (I get mine at Di Pietro's on Springfield Ave in Maplewood and it is exceptional)
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 bunch turnip greens, cut coarsely (try scissors for this)
• 1 bunch collard greens, cut similarly
• water
• red wine vinegar

Method:

Heat a large skillet. Add pancetta and stir until some of the fat renders and it browns slightly. Add the onions and stir the mixture vigorously. Don't let it burn! If the browning process gets away from you, add a cup of water and keep going. Cook until the onions are translucent.

Now add the chopped greens. Add just enough water to cover, but not drown the mixture. Cook until the greens are soft, about 15 minutes. (It seemed like 15 minutes. I was observing the greens and not the clock.) Remove the skillet from the heat.

Transfer the greens to a bowl, leaving behind the bits of pancetta and onions, as well as the the cooking liquid. Press any remaining liquid out of the greens and add back into the pot.

Now add a few splashes of red wine vinegar to the liquid. Reduce the mixture over medium-high heat. It should develop a velvety, voluptuous texture. Taste and add salt if necessary. When it's fully-reduced, remove from heat and add the greens, tossing until they are well-coated. Serve immediately, if not sooner. Some may enjoy  a sprinkle of hot sauce or red pepper flakes!

 

-Clyde Tressler